A Tale of Three Rivers
white water fun comes in many forms

By Matt Leidecker

They say ours is the potato state: fertile, flat and perfect country for potatoes. But “they” have likely never been to Idaho. 

The reality is that most of the state from the Wood River Valley north is composed of mountains—big, jagged, wild mountains. The Smoky, Sawtooth, White Cloud, Salmon River, Boise, and Big Horn Crag mountain ranges to name a few. 

An infinite cycle of precipitation and runoff has taken its toll on these mountains. The slow, steady erosion has carved breathtaking gorges and a network of rivers for those daring enough to catch a ride in Mother Nature’s water park.

Three rivers, the South Fork of the Payette, the Day Stretch of the Salmon, and the Middle Fork of the Salmon, provide a diversity of white water experiences all within an easy drive of the Wood River Valley. 

To appreciate the variety of white water in Idaho, it is helpful to be familiar with the International River Classification system: a scale from I to VI. While the former is essentially flat water, the latter refers to white water too treacherous for even the ultimate professional. Class II is flowing water with some small waves; Class III refers to rapids with strong current and a few obstacles; Class IV rapids have many obstacles and very swift water. Class V rapids comprise violent white water, demand constant maneuvering and should be attempted only by very experienced boaters.

South Fork Payette River:
The Canyon Run

Once it leaves the high peaks of the Sawtooths near Stanley, Idaho, the South Fork of the Payette picks up volume and speed. It travels west until it joins the North Fork of the Payette—an expert run—and forms the Main Payette. 

Above this confluence, just below the town of Lowman, the white water prize of the South Fork begins. Four miles downstream from this wildfire ravaged town, the Deadwood River marks the put-in for what is called the Canyon Stretch. Host to numerous Class IV and one famous class V drop, this 12-mile run is, according to Steve Lentz of Far and Away Adventures, “quite possibly the best white water day trip in the West.” 

A moderate Class III introduction with Oxbow rapid and a brief soak at the Pine Flat hot springs readies boaters for the action downstream. Though the road technically runs along the river, it is never in sight. The gorge is 300 to 400 feet deep. 

“It is very remote, very beautiful, and feels like a wilderness canyon,” says longtime Idaho kayaker Bozo Cardozo.

Once committed to the deepest part of the gorge, rafters are confronted with the most challenging white water: Entrance Exam and S Turn to name two. A mandatory portage at Big Falls is prefaced by a sign a half-mile upstream of the cataract. 

The Canyon Stretch is a beautiful granite gorge, complete with deep green swirling pools at the bottom of the falls. Blackadar’s, Lower Walt’s—both named after Idaho white water pioneer Walt Blackadar—Trashcan and Lone Pine challenge paddle boaters and kayakers alike with towering waves of white foam and powerful holes and hydraulics. 

Some are fooled by the ephemeral serenity when the road returns to the water level, but two more challenges await. 

Cardozo warns of Little Falls and the most intimidating rapid on the stretch with a “very, very wild entry” known as Surprise. Downstream are a few more miles of easy white water and an array of crystal clear pools, granite ledges and immaculate gravel bars. It is hard to imagine a more seemingly secluded and challenging stretch of water that is so accessible by car.

The South Fork of the Payette is recommended for people with moderate white water experience. With a rapid as large and feared as Big Falls, it is nearly impossible to find a river story from the South Fork that doesn’t include this giant. 

Consider the tale of the rafting duo that inadvertently drifted toward the lip of the falls. At the last minute, the guide jumped overboard and swam to safety, leaving his buddy to face the cataract alone. After a terrifying swim, this poor, bedraggled passenger realized the only exit was up the steep canyon wall to the road. He then began a lonely hitchhike back to Lowman wearing all the river had left him: T-shirt and lifejacket. 

Main Salmon River:
Scenic Run and the Day Stretch

While the Canyon Stretch of the South Fork of the Payette may be one of the most action-packed day trips in the region, the upper reaches of the Main Salmon offer one of the most scenic floats in Idaho. The Buckhorn campground on State Highway 75 provides easy access to the river (57 miles north of Ketchum). 

This section of easy to moderate white water, Class II to III, can be floated during the spring and early summer months. This upper section of the Salmon River is an excellent introduction to white water boating and is a perfect trip to enjoy with the entire family. It is possible to rent inflatable kayaks in Stanley to run this stretch.

The Main Salmon River is the longest free-flowing body of water contained within state boundaries. As such, it has a multitude of white water runs, both on the main stem and its many tributaries. Its most frequented novice-to-intermediate white water trip begins 13 miles downstream of Stanley, just below the remnants of Sunbeam Dam and the confluence with the Yankee Fork. It is referred to as the Day Stretch. 

The two major rapids, Piece of Cake and the Narrows, complement scenic floating in a forested, alpine landscape and provide private and commercial boaters with a convenient half or full day white water experience.

In the spring and early summer, rapid snowmelt swells the river to create the option of adding two exciting class IV rapids to the day’s boating. 

In the mid 1930s, local residents blew up the Sunbeam Dam, originally constructed to provide power to a gold mine up the Yankee Fork, in an effort to restore diminished sockeye salmon runs. In later years, when State Highway 75 was improved, a large chunk of the canyon wall was dynamited to create space for the road. The resulting pile of debris was eventually christened Shotgun rapid. 

“These two manmade constrictions provide the most exciting white water on the day stretch and are runnable at flows over 5 feet on the Yankee Fork gauge,” recommends Randy Hess, owner of White Otter Outdoor Adventures.

Several outfitting companies provide commercial float trips down the day stretch and scenic section upstream from Stanley. 

Middle Fork of the Salmon River:
A multi-day white water adventure

While the South Fork of the Payette and the Main Salmon offer a variety of boating options, they are no further from civilization than the nearest road. To experience a multi-day wilderness white water adventure, go no further than the famed Middle Fork of the Salmon River. 

A short drive west out of Stanley on Highway 21 and another 20 miles north on dirt roads will deposit you at the Boundary Creek launch site. From there, the Middle Fork takes a northerly course through the largest wilderness area in the lower 48 states, the Frank Church River of No Return. After 100 miles the river merges with the main stem of the Salmon, nearly 170 miles below the Day Stretch. The takeout at Cache Bar is 60 miles west and north of the town of Salmon, Idaho. What lies between, for many people, is the experience of a lifetime.

Setting off on a six-day, 100-mile rafting trip is not without its logistical complications. But, as any veteran of the river will tell you, it is well worth it. The river flows through some of the most remote country in the West. There are no roads, no hotels, cars or cell phones. 

This river experience is vastly different from running a shuttle 12 miles down the road and staying at the nearest hotel. Everything needed for a six- to eight-day trip must be loaded into boats and carried along. It is a unique experience to be so far removed from society while in such a spectacular river canyon.

Running such a length of river allows you to observe some rather distinct changes in geography and ecosystems along the way. The Middle Fork, which begins at an elevation of 6,000 feet, is no exception. The first five miles run cool, clear and swift, offering some of the most technical and difficult boating. The landscape is covered in a thick forest of Douglas fir and lodgepole pine trees. 

After 20 miles, the canyon opens up, and the majestic ponderosa pines begin to dominate the forests. The white water slackens and hours are spent drifting through an open canyon filled with silence. Hikes up tributaries and to Native American historical sites fill the days; lively conversation around a blazing campfire fills the nights. It is easy to settle into the routine and relaxing pace of river time.

Near mile 50, the river enters Tappan Canyon. Crumbly, red granite walls spill down into a series of rapids that give even the most experienced rafters butterflies. Thankfully, each rapid is followed by a deep calm pool, great for swimming or picking up the pieces of a botched run. After Tappan Canyon, the river meanders through increasingly steep and dry terrain. The forests are reduced to pockets on north facing hillsides, and mountain mahogany, ninebark and hawthorn take over the landscape.

Mile 70 marks the beginning of the lower canyon. Dry walls soar thousands of feet overhead and pinch the river into constrictions forming the formidable Jack Creek rapids. At 80 miles, Waterfall Creek comes tumbling into the river from the right bank. This spectacular waterfall marks the beginning of the Impassible Canyon. From there the river flows through the third deepest gorge in North America, behind only the Grand Canyon and Hells Canyon of the Snake. The river is buffeted by towering granite walls and protected by numerous Class III and IV drops. It is, simply put, a boater’s dream.

And like most dreams, words don’t convey the experience. It is a vast canyon that has given rise to thousands of stories, moments of mirth and epiphany. 

While Idaho white water provides thrills and laughter, a trip down the Middle Fork, or the Day Stretch, or the Payette is about much more and much less. 

True joy might just come down to finding a quiet spot at the river’s edge where you can watch the light drain from the sky and listen to the sound of water making its way to the sea. •

sidebar:

Access and Permits

By Matt Leidecker

South Fork of the Payette:
The South Fork is open to the public as long as there is water to float the river. Ideal summer flows range from 1000 to 2000 cubic feet per second (cfs), but it has been run as low as a few hundred up to 5000 cfs. Permits are not required, but a trailhead parking pass ($3 per day) is required at established sites. Call (208) 259-3361 for more information about this fee demonstration program. After the spring runoff, the river level is affected greatly by the release of water from the Deadwood Reservoir.

Salmon River, Day Stretch:
A self-issued permit is required to float this stretch. Kiosks with permits and information are available at all the developed river launch sites. Floating restrictions due to spawning salmon are enacted in mid-August. At this time, the Boise National Forest is reviewing these regulations. Current information will be posted at all developed launch sites. This stretch of river is not recommended over 10 feet on the Yankee Fork gauge due to logs and other debris in the river. For information contact Erik McCoy or Lisa Stoeffler at (208) 774-3000.

Middle Fork of the Salmon River:
Due to the popularity of Middle Fork, float boating is carefully managed here. Daily launch permits are allocated through a lottery system and campsites are prescheduled the day of launch. Every permit holder is required to show certain pieces of equipment, including a firepan, proper toilet system, shovel, axe, and gray water strainer. The lottery applications are usually due on the first of January, and results are available sometime in February. For more information and permit applications call the Salmon-Challis National Forest at (208) 879-4101. A useful website with weather, flows, and other river information is Vince’s Idaho Whitewater Page at “www.webpak.net/~rafter/”