Connoisseur's guide to organic beef

by Daniella Chace

Not long ago we defined the quality of
our beef by the cut or the amount of fat it contained. Now, in a time when we are getting back to whole foods and sustainable agriculture, we know that to be an aficionado of fine meat, you need to know oh so much more. 

The best tasting, cleanest meat is said to be from cattle that have been allowed to free-range and graze on fresh natural grasses sans toxic chemicals. To be sure that is what you are getting, look for terms such as organic and grass-fed beef on the package label.

Our valley has much to offer in high-quality meat; you just need to know where to look and what to ask for. Here’s a primer on the choices now available.

Healthy Soil, Healthy Animals
Ranchers growing organic beef also practice sustainable agriculture. Sustainable is the term used to define a practice that does not deplete our natural resources but supports the regeneration of soil, plant life and clean water. 

To be certified organic by the Idaho Department of Agriculture or U.S. Department of Agriculture or to meet the standards of the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement, strict guidelines must be followed. 

First, the land the animals live on and eat from must be clean. There is a three-year transition period and during this time no synthetic pesticide, herbicide or fertilizer may be used on the land. Also the cattle are fed only certified organic grains and grasses so no residual synthetic chemicals are being passed into the meat through the cattle’s diets. 

Certification That Means Something
As of October 2002, new USDA guidelines are in effect for all food labels as well as the label of “USDA Organic” on beef. The USDA must certify anyone producing or handling meat labeled organic. In addition, some states have additional organic requirements. 

“You’re not suppose to use the word organic unless the label says ‘certified organic’ and by whom,” says Marvin Hollen of Daily Blessings, who was a member of the National Organic Standards Board until last May. Hollen has worked with the NOSB, fighting for more stringent organic beef regulations and is known internationally for his dedication to this endeavor.

The cattle also cannot be fed any animal by-products or hormone-laced feed nor given growth-hormone injections. Beef slated for the certified organic label also cannot be given antibiotics. Just as hormones in food may become part of the chemical mix in our bodies so may antibiotic residue in meat, according to some studies.

Range Fed
Cattle that range freely munch on all the natural grasses and plants abundant in our local hills and valleys. The nutrients in these plants become part of the animals’ muscles, which is what makes the meat nutritious for us to eat. 

Any type of confinement pen or cage is strictly prohibited for animals whose meat is to bear the label of range fed. A free-range animal is said to be more relaxed. When an animal is stressed the meat becomes tough and the flavor changes, free-range proponents say. 

Also, many organic farmers practice pasture rotation, which naturally decreases the load of parasites and bacteria the animals are exposed to and allows natural immune resistance to develop. The use of synthetic pesticides for de-worming an animal that would disqualify it from the organic category are, therefore, not necessary.

Hamburger That Protects Your Heart?
All beef is inherently rich in iron and protein, but that may be the only similarity between mass-market beef and grass-fed beef. 
New studies of grass-fed cattle indicate such meat may contain higher levels of the desirable conjugated linoleic acid (CLA). Recent studies conclude that CLA has numerous health properties, including cancer-protecting and cardiovascular-enhancing effects. This meat is rich in the essential omega-3 fatty acids—like those found in fish and wild game— higher levels of vitamins A and E and lower levels of saturated fatty acids. 

Quality on Your Plate
In the Wood River Valley, our source for grass-fed beef is from Diane and Marvin Hollen of Daily Blessing Foods Inc., who will deliver special orders from Nyssa, Oregon. Rich Stoney, William’s Market meat department manager, has recently brought in the Daily Blessings grass-fed steaks, ribs and hamburgers to meet the growing demand for high quality beef. William’s also will continue to carry Nate and Annie’s organic beef and Painted Hills antibiotic-free and hormone-free beef. You will also find organic beef at Albertson’s in Hailey and at both Atkinsons’ stores in Ketchum and Hailey. Paul’s in Hailey will special order organic beef on request.

Our only locally grown organic beef source is from Picabo Lean Inc., where a small herd of organic cattle have been raised in the hills and pastures of the B-Bar-B Ranch southeast of Picabo, which is owned by Katie Breckenridge and Rob Struthers. 

“It’s taken a long time to get all certified (the feed, land and the animals) but our organic cattle will be ready for market in the spring. We plan to sell our cattle through word-of-mouth only,” states Breckenridge. 

Beef About Town
Restaurants are just beginning to serve organic and grass-fed beef. Bigwood Bread, the Ketchum bakery and café, now has Burger Friday, which means every Friday they have scrumptious organic burgers on the menu. Soon they also hope to serve Daily Blessings grass-fed beef to their beef connoisseur customers. 

As we come to appreciate the extraordinary benefits of quality beef and ask for it locally, we will, no doubt, start to see it on more menus.•